Fall 2011 RTW: Trends from Paris

25 Mar

Many of the NYFW trends were pervasive throughout the month of shows — minimalism, the seventies and retro prints…They are fun to look at but pretty much remain constant throughout each reinterpretation. There are only so many ways to do minimalism. Paris brought a whole new theme to the FW11 trends though and they were really interesting ideas.

First we have the full-body print. What I love about this is how in spite of using the same print for each piece (dresses don’t count), there is a lot of different and change within the look. What I mean is, when you wear a two-piece hot pink look the meat of the outfit is the pink — the bold color choice — not the pieces themselves. When you add the pattern to the mix it transforms into something else. The pattern is just as important as the pieces. You can’t layer the same pattern with any pattern — it takes a stylistic eye and a real knack for fashion to see what looks chic and amazing as opposed to looking like a juicy tracksuit. The Celine piece has that wooden pattern with the nude turtleneck as the only distracting element but it adds to the look. I just think this entire concept is fascinating and so hard to do (trust me, I’ve been trying). Even the Givenchy look with the cuffed sleeves like from Varsity jackets (I’m blanking on the term — it is only 9 AM though) gives the entire look a retro vibe. It manages to remain chic and inspirational while giving a nod to this very outdated look.

A reinvention of structure was really big in Paris this year. It manifested itself into two categories in my opinion — there was the boxy structure (an infusion of masculine if you will) and the creative structure (à la McQueen kind of thing, I’ll get to that in a bit). Here we have the boxy kind. This is something that is on the runway every once in awhile (flashback to Margiela’s Spring 2011 collection) and is generally applause worthy but pretty unwearable. This season there was a breakthrough with this style. McCartney did it the best in my opinion — she puffed up the sleeves and boxed out the style but kept the waist feminine and skirt flattering. It takes a balance to not look boxy and unflattering — herein lies my fascination with fashion, the dichotomy between something completely new and outstanding while still remaining beautiful and graceful on the body. In some cases it is impossible but when it’s done right it is just truly awe inspiring. Gaultier took a different route with the outerwear — my friend argued that I was stretching it a bit but I don’t think so. This jacket really dominates with the unusual structure and reminds me a lot of the Burberry Prorsum Pre-Fall coat that has the same structural ingenuity. It’s the opposite of the McCartney dress in terms of the balance between modern and new and flattering — the top is  feminine with the fur and the quilting but then puffs out to a kind of hoop skirt around the waist. It’s amazing. YSL had an innovation that a few others felt inspired by as well which is just the entire boxy dress. I love this idea because by keeping it a mini they are free to do what they will with the above. This season is where designers stumbled upon the realization that they can contrast the beauty of the body with the intensity of this boxy style they’ve toyed with for years — it’s like when my mom said to me, “yes, by all means where a mens shirt if you’d like but you have to wear something tight on the bottom.” It’s intuitive to a woman — hide one area, you got to flaunt the other.

There’s really not much to say about Peplums except that they were just absolutely everywhere. I love them and they’re flattering in their own strange way.

Ok so there’s not much one can say about these because they are so individual to the designer, but these three stood out to me (from many). This is a staple of the McQueen collections and one that Burton is so skilled at it is practically indistinguishable from McQueen himself. I can never forget the intensity and just absolutely stunning quality of the closing look from the Spring collection. Viktor & Rolf’s entire collection wasn’t really my pace but I admire it none the less. It was medieval and renaissance but there wasn’t a lot of variation within the theme. The Yamamoto show was deadly amazing and I love this and the symbolism of it. The deconstruction of fashion and the deterioration of the business is really a big theme with the grunge pervasive this season. I love these and I love this entire style it really is evidence within itself of just pure, raw talent.

Credit: WWD.com

Stella McCartney Fall 2011 Runway Review

Celine Fall 2011 Runway Review

Givenchy Fall 2011 Runway Review

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2011 Runway Review

Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2011 Runway Review

Miu Miu Fall 2011 Runway Review

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Runway Review

Viktor & Rolf Fall 2011 Runway Review


One Response to “Fall 2011 RTW: Trends from Paris”


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